The arrival of Serge Diaghileva and the Ballet Russes in Paris in 1909, was historically mark as the catalyst of the Art Deco period. Pivotal in the development of Art Deco, the Ballets Russes imbued fashion with its colourful and voluptuous aesthetic through the genius of Paul Poiret, who introduced the brilliant and bright colours and exotic garments, related to the Oriental splendour of Leon Bakst’s set and costume designs.
This important period also highlighted the Women’s movement and the thirst for the freedom that led to the radical shift in changing attitudes among women. The modern women of 1920s rebelled against the traditional Victorian values and feminine image. The emancipation of women liberalism also marked the rise of the Art Deco Fashion Icon, known as the Flappers.
The Flappers, ‘the young birds flapping its wings while learning to fly’, wore their hair and skirts short. They used heavy make up, smoke and drink in public, dancing Charleston and escaping from the oppressive tradition.
Masculine forms, streamlined, short hemlines, tubular silhouette, the cloche hat, ‘Charleston’ dress, geometric, angular shapes and designs, rolled down stockings were all the characteristics of the flapper fashion.
With this kind of freedom of movement as priority and concept, designers such as Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet and Gabrielle Chanel created the first real style for modern woman. The love of surface embellishment and abstract flourished, innovative seaming, gauzy fabrics, beads and feathers were used in working with silhouette. Menswear concepts and sportswear ideas were also popular.
The progressive time in economy during Art Deco period, the glamorous evening fashion, the era of Jazz Age life and the limelight of the avant-garde, all represented the life of modernity, luxury and leisure, simply, the three key themes of Art Deco Fashion.
1. Lussier, Suzanne, Art Deco Fashion, V&A Publications, UK 2003.
2. Art Deco Fashion History, http://www.art-deco-style.com/art-deco-fashion.html
3. Historic Dress: Early Art Deco (1911- 1929), http://char.txa.cornell.edu/art/dress/historic/earlyart/earlyart.htm
4. Decolish,http://www.decolish.com/ArtDecoFashion.html Decolish.com
Written to be Published for :
(www.nouvelleentree.com)
24th January 2011
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